Hello all,
Apologies for neglecting this blog (yet again) for so long.
I know I say this every time, but really and truly, I have been beyond busy in the past two weeks.
What have I been up to? In a word - Tokyo.
The city that has everything, and the reason why I chose to come down here and do this studio in Japan.
There is a lot I have to say about my humble experience in this world capital, and I know I won't be able to say it all here, certainly not in one single post. However, I will try and express some of my thoughts, along with the usual report of what I've done and seen etc. etc. you know the drill...
On my first night in town, I went to Shibuya station with my friend Hirokosan, who lives in nearby Yokohama.
Hirokosan used to work in Shibuya district, and was very kind to show me the ropes around the station and share some of her knowledge, and thoughts about this fascinating place.
Shibuya is one of the most famous districts in Tokyo. It is a crowded, fashionable area where Japan's youth go to party hard and shop even harder. There are tons of restaurants, shopping malls, bars of all sorts, gaming arcades, music venues and clubs.
Culturally, Shibuya is one of the origins of visual-kei, a worldwide music/fashion phenomenon. As well as numerous internationally beloved fashion trends and design labels.
The area around Shibuya station, from Shibuya crossing, and leading up to the fashion and shopping mecca that is Shibuya 109 is especially busy, with some 200,000 pedestrians crossing the street on the famed Shibuya crossing daily!
I asked Hirokosan how and why Shibuya came to be.
Hirokoan: (laughs) I don't know! Why did Times Square happened? Shibuya crossing used to be a rice field many years ago. Shibuya was already famous when I was born (80s).
Due to the tragic recent events taking place in Japan, the Tokyo municipality has been pledging to reduce electricity usage around the city. Well, at least that's what they are saying on press conferences. In reality, I haven't seen a sincere effort being made to conserve energy anywhere in Tokyo, the city is bright as a chandelier, and I am not talking about traffic lights and hospitals here...
That said, there has been some limited attempts at conservation being made in the private sector, and this is noticeable in Shibuya. It isn't as bright as it was five years ago, when I was last here. Still, the Shibuya crossing area was iluminated and happy, and I had no issue getting the neons and crowds I need for my work.
Hirokosan used to live in Sendai, one of the cities that were hit the worst by the recent calamity. Over a beer and some sushi, overlooking the Shibuya crowds downstairs, she told me about a close friend of hers that died in the disaster.
Hirokosan: Yes, it's usually brighter. But today is a Monday, and we are here now, having a beer, and having a good time, talking and laughing...
Indeed. Who are we to complain.
Feeling more comfortable and familiar now, with the bustling chaos that is Shibuya, I have decided that this will be my base in Tokyo.
Hirokosan introduced me to the cheapest accomodation option in Tokyo (other than sleeping on the pavement).
A mangakissa is a place where people go to read manga (Japanese comics), watch DVDs or use computers to surf the web, or play games.
These venues offer visitors a station of some sort (anything fom a reclining chair to a matress in a closed private space) + a computer, TV and an endless selection of comic books. Most mangakissa charge by the hour, and often have special late night rates for people like myself who just want someplace cheap to crash for the night. Oh, they also provide free soft drinks!
The one I'm staying in feels a bit extraterrestrial, but at under 1000¥ (about 12$) per night, it has to be the best deal in Tokyo!
My next stop after Shibuya was Asakusa district.
There is not a lot to do and see here, but it was worthwhile coming down for two things:
The Skytree building will be the talest in the world (634m) once it is completed (May 22 2012). It is already very (very) tall, but a bit of an eyesore in my personal opinion.
Sensouji has got to be my favorite temple in all Japan. Unlike the many prettier and more austere temples in and around Kyoto. This temple is a down to earth, no bullshit, worker's spiritual outlet.
As such, it is opened 24/7 and there's almost always some traffic around.
I also love the huge market right in front of the temple's main hall, cashing in on the many tourists and locals who come here to worship and pick up a tacky souvernir or an overpriced candy on their way back to the trains.
The neighbouring district of Ueno is also great. There's a park here with some famous shrines and monuments, and lots of museums. The reason I came here however, was the Ameyoko Arcade market. This open air bazar looks, sounds and smells like a market in Shanghai or Bangkok, not Japan. It is laid out under the train tracks and stays opened late.
The sights and lights here are great!
In the years post WWII this was a major black market, and today it still retains some of that lost era's gritty edge, with its decaying shabby construction, homeless squatters in makeshift card-box shelters and women whispering "special massaji?" from darkened, smoky thresholds at passers by.
Shinjuku district is one of my favourites in Tokyo. It is split down the middle by the eternally congested Shinjuku station. Some 3 million people pass through here daily.
West of the station is Tokyo's main civic administrative hub, AKA the Tokyo skyscraper strip.
The colossal Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices twin buildings are here, the tallest buildings in Tokyo (for now).
Along with some beautiful concrete cityscapes, busy broad avenues, arcades, junctions and intersections.
The pedestrian spaces in Shinjuku are very dynamic. There are always two or three levels of traffic, bridges, tunnels, escalators and such. It's really fun just strolling in this area, inspite of being surrounded by concrete monsters, people's movement does not feel restricted. Whoever designed some of these monoliths, apparently was quite fond of German Expressionism...
This lentil shaped wonder is the Moude Gauken Cocoon Tower, overlooking Shinjuku station, its a school, and a fine example of an innovative approach to ergonomics. This style of architecture is called metabolism if I am not mistaken.
There are many homeless people roaming the streets right under the government offices, a lot more than I remember seeing here five years ago.
East of Shinjuku station feels like another world altogether.
If Shibuya is a happy fun-land for people in their teens and early twenties, East Shinjuku is a worn down, sad carnival for weary salarymen in their late thirties and forties.
The famous Kabukicho, Tokyo's vast red-light district, crawles along here. It's bright, loud and very very busy. Perfect for people watching, and is covered with neon signs, floor to ceiling.
I made a new friend on Kabukicho:
Solicitor: Hey is that a video camera?
AD: Yes...
Solicitor: That's cool. Say what is your plan for tonight, wanna party?
AD: No thanks.
Solicitor: Come on my friend, I'll show you the best girls in town!
AD: No, that's OK.
Solicitor: You haven't SEEN what I've got yet, just have a look...
AD: Listen man, I don't like girls OK?
Solicitor: Well why didn't you say so? come with me, I'll take you to the best gay club in Shinjuku!
AD: No! I have like 300¥ (about 4$) to my name! How much of a good time will that buy me?
Solicitor: (genuinely looks offended) Why are you talking about money? I thought we were friends (!!!).
AD: Yes, no, we are friends.
Solicitor: I thought we were friends...
AD: Look bro, what's you're name?
Solicitor: Antonio.
AD: Antonio, can you do me a favour?
Antonio: Sure!
AD: Can you take my picture? Just press here.
Antonio: Over there?
AD: Try and get the lights in there.
Antonio: Say cheese.
AD: Oh, fuck off.
Our acquaintance was short, but meaningful, I'd like to think.
Roppongi used to be a drunk and wild party district, especially popular with the gaijin (foreigner) populations of Tokyo. While it is still a very happy place (so expansive though!) on most nights, the area has also underwent a major facelift, with a bunch of ambitious public projects and no less than three big new museums.
Tokyo Tower, looks like an evil Ci-fi twin of the Paris original, it was built in the early 90s when all Japan wanted was to be a western country.
Everyone here other than myself was a teenager on a date. If you are ever on a date in the Tokyo area, by the way, this place is highly recommended, the views are breathtaking especially after dark. Very romantic.
Roppongi Hills is a scary bubble "utopia" community.
This place took decades to complete. Its planners, went to great lengths, and got very close to realizing Fritz Lang's eerie futuristic vision of Metropolis, It seems some people felt that was a good idea... This M-A-S-S-I-V-E complex easily dominates the Roppongi skyline.
It contains residence apartments (high high end), along with office space and a huge cultural commercial area including shops, theatres, a nursery, an aquarium, the super cool Mori Art Centre museum, a fitness centre, a planetarium and even a green lung. Here people can literally live, work and recreate wthin one contained microcosmos!
Regardless of whether this whacky social/economical experiment works (or whether it is even a good idea to create these "self contained" economic pockets in a city), the buildings are absolutely stunning, if somewhat menacing...
They even went so far as putting up one of the late Louise Bourgeois arachnid-like installations by the main entrance! Seriously, the "Brave New World" cliches are so predominant here, they border on self parody!
Yes... Hurry back to the mothership, my faithful drones...
Ginza district is a snobby, 5th avenue type shopping hub.
The only reasons I ever come down here are the incredible Tokyo International Forum building.
One of the best pieces of contemporary architecture in Japan.
...And the fish market.
Tsukiji fish market is a universe on its own.
Every morning (very early), a daily catch (2,000 tons) of everything and anything that lives in the ocean gets here, and is distributed around the many restaurants in Tokyo and its many suburbs.
Five years ago when I was here, visitors were allowed to go in the tuna auctions, but due to rude tourists interfering with the auction and even touching the incredibly expensive fish (some tuna go for as much as 10,000$), the auction areas have recently went off limits.
Now, I can be a sneaky sneak when I have to, and I did manage to get in there and shoot the fish, but once inside, the police and local vendors were on me like white on rye (guess I can't pass for a Japanese fishmonger).
This was the first and only time I did not feel 100% welcome in this country.
Some people asked me politely to leave, while others slurred things at me in Japanese, that were certainly not polite... Many of them were carrying large sword-like knives for gutting and stripping fish, and I figured I'd better bounce before I end up a sashimi special in some upscale Roppongi joint...
I don't blame them of course.
These people don't owe me anything. They are working very hard, and it is well known that the fishing industry in Japan has taken a bad hit following the recent earthquake and nuclear crisis up north.
Tokyo as always､ has exceeded my expectations.
I got what I came here for, and then some.
It's the perfect city for a video maker I think, even post-tragedy, with the tension and power rollouts, these difficulties in my opinion add an air of sinister mystery to the footage. The bright and dark sharp contrasts give some parts of the city (Shinjuku/Roppongi) a distinct ominous air...
Anyways, there were very many more highlights, and I am hoping I can write on some of those in future posts.
Thanks for reading.
Apologies for neglecting this blog (yet again) for so long.
I know I say this every time, but really and truly, I have been beyond busy in the past two weeks.
What have I been up to? In a word - Tokyo.
The city that has everything, and the reason why I chose to come down here and do this studio in Japan.
There is a lot I have to say about my humble experience in this world capital, and I know I won't be able to say it all here, certainly not in one single post. However, I will try and express some of my thoughts, along with the usual report of what I've done and seen etc. etc. you know the drill...
On my first night in town, I went to Shibuya station with my friend Hirokosan, who lives in nearby Yokohama.
Hirokosan used to work in Shibuya district, and was very kind to show me the ropes around the station and share some of her knowledge, and thoughts about this fascinating place.
Shibuya is one of the most famous districts in Tokyo. It is a crowded, fashionable area where Japan's youth go to party hard and shop even harder. There are tons of restaurants, shopping malls, bars of all sorts, gaming arcades, music venues and clubs.
Culturally, Shibuya is one of the origins of visual-kei, a worldwide music/fashion phenomenon. As well as numerous internationally beloved fashion trends and design labels.
The area around Shibuya station, from Shibuya crossing, and leading up to the fashion and shopping mecca that is Shibuya 109 is especially busy, with some 200,000 pedestrians crossing the street on the famed Shibuya crossing daily!
I asked Hirokosan how and why Shibuya came to be.
Hirokoan: (laughs) I don't know! Why did Times Square happened? Shibuya crossing used to be a rice field many years ago. Shibuya was already famous when I was born (80s).
That said, there has been some limited attempts at conservation being made in the private sector, and this is noticeable in Shibuya. It isn't as bright as it was five years ago, when I was last here. Still, the Shibuya crossing area was iluminated and happy, and I had no issue getting the neons and crowds I need for my work.
Hirokosan used to live in Sendai, one of the cities that were hit the worst by the recent calamity. Over a beer and some sushi, overlooking the Shibuya crowds downstairs, she told me about a close friend of hers that died in the disaster.
Hirokosan: Yes, it's usually brighter. But today is a Monday, and we are here now, having a beer, and having a good time, talking and laughing...
Indeed. Who are we to complain.
Feeling more comfortable and familiar now, with the bustling chaos that is Shibuya, I have decided that this will be my base in Tokyo.
Hirokosan introduced me to the cheapest accomodation option in Tokyo (other than sleeping on the pavement).
A mangakissa is a place where people go to read manga (Japanese comics), watch DVDs or use computers to surf the web, or play games.
These venues offer visitors a station of some sort (anything fom a reclining chair to a matress in a closed private space) + a computer, TV and an endless selection of comic books. Most mangakissa charge by the hour, and often have special late night rates for people like myself who just want someplace cheap to crash for the night. Oh, they also provide free soft drinks!
The one I'm staying in feels a bit extraterrestrial, but at under 1000¥ (about 12$) per night, it has to be the best deal in Tokyo!
My next stop after Shibuya was Asakusa district.
There is not a lot to do and see here, but it was worthwhile coming down for two things:
The Skytree building will be the talest in the world (634m) once it is completed (May 22 2012). It is already very (very) tall, but a bit of an eyesore in my personal opinion.
Sensouji has got to be my favorite temple in all Japan. Unlike the many prettier and more austere temples in and around Kyoto. This temple is a down to earth, no bullshit, worker's spiritual outlet.
As such, it is opened 24/7 and there's almost always some traffic around.
I also love the huge market right in front of the temple's main hall, cashing in on the many tourists and locals who come here to worship and pick up a tacky souvernir or an overpriced candy on their way back to the trains.
The sights and lights here are great!
Shinjuku district is one of my favourites in Tokyo. It is split down the middle by the eternally congested Shinjuku station. Some 3 million people pass through here daily.
West of the station is Tokyo's main civic administrative hub, AKA the Tokyo skyscraper strip.
The colossal Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices twin buildings are here, the tallest buildings in Tokyo (for now).
The pedestrian spaces in Shinjuku are very dynamic. There are always two or three levels of traffic, bridges, tunnels, escalators and such. It's really fun just strolling in this area, inspite of being surrounded by concrete monsters, people's movement does not feel restricted. Whoever designed some of these monoliths, apparently was quite fond of German Expressionism...
This lentil shaped wonder is the Moude Gauken Cocoon Tower, overlooking Shinjuku station, its a school, and a fine example of an innovative approach to ergonomics. This style of architecture is called metabolism if I am not mistaken.
There are many homeless people roaming the streets right under the government offices, a lot more than I remember seeing here five years ago.
East of Shinjuku station feels like another world altogether.
If Shibuya is a happy fun-land for people in their teens and early twenties, East Shinjuku is a worn down, sad carnival for weary salarymen in their late thirties and forties.
I made a new friend on Kabukicho:
AD: Yes...
Solicitor: That's cool. Say what is your plan for tonight, wanna party?
AD: No thanks.
Solicitor: Come on my friend, I'll show you the best girls in town!
AD: No, that's OK.
Solicitor: You haven't SEEN what I've got yet, just have a look...
AD: Listen man, I don't like girls OK?
Solicitor: Well why didn't you say so? come with me, I'll take you to the best gay club in Shinjuku!
AD: No! I have like 300¥ (about 4$) to my name! How much of a good time will that buy me?
Solicitor: (genuinely looks offended) Why are you talking about money? I thought we were friends (!!!).
AD: Yes, no, we are friends.
Solicitor: I thought we were friends...
AD: Look bro, what's you're name?
Solicitor: Antonio.
AD: Antonio, can you do me a favour?
Antonio: Sure!
AD: Can you take my picture? Just press here.
Antonio: Over there?
AD: Try and get the lights in there.
Antonio: Say cheese.
AD: Oh, fuck off.
Our acquaintance was short, but meaningful, I'd like to think.
Roppongi used to be a drunk and wild party district, especially popular with the gaijin (foreigner) populations of Tokyo. While it is still a very happy place (so expansive though!) on most nights, the area has also underwent a major facelift, with a bunch of ambitious public projects and no less than three big new museums.
Tokyo Tower, looks like an evil Ci-fi twin of the Paris original, it was built in the early 90s when all Japan wanted was to be a western country.
Roppongi Hills is a scary bubble "utopia" community.
This place took decades to complete. Its planners, went to great lengths, and got very close to realizing Fritz Lang's eerie futuristic vision of Metropolis, It seems some people felt that was a good idea... This M-A-S-S-I-V-E complex easily dominates the Roppongi skyline.
It contains residence apartments (high high end), along with office space and a huge cultural commercial area including shops, theatres, a nursery, an aquarium, the super cool Mori Art Centre museum, a fitness centre, a planetarium and even a green lung. Here people can literally live, work and recreate wthin one contained microcosmos!
Regardless of whether this whacky social/economical experiment works (or whether it is even a good idea to create these "self contained" economic pockets in a city), the buildings are absolutely stunning, if somewhat menacing...
They even went so far as putting up one of the late Louise Bourgeois arachnid-like installations by the main entrance! Seriously, the "Brave New World" cliches are so predominant here, they border on self parody!
Yes... Hurry back to the mothership, my faithful drones...
Ginza district is a snobby, 5th avenue type shopping hub.
The only reasons I ever come down here are the incredible Tokyo International Forum building.
One of the best pieces of contemporary architecture in Japan.
Tsukiji fish market is a universe on its own.
Every morning (very early), a daily catch (2,000 tons) of everything and anything that lives in the ocean gets here, and is distributed around the many restaurants in Tokyo and its many suburbs.
Five years ago when I was here, visitors were allowed to go in the tuna auctions, but due to rude tourists interfering with the auction and even touching the incredibly expensive fish (some tuna go for as much as 10,000$), the auction areas have recently went off limits.
Now, I can be a sneaky sneak when I have to, and I did manage to get in there and shoot the fish, but once inside, the police and local vendors were on me like white on rye (guess I can't pass for a Japanese fishmonger).
This was the first and only time I did not feel 100% welcome in this country.
Some people asked me politely to leave, while others slurred things at me in Japanese, that were certainly not polite... Many of them were carrying large sword-like knives for gutting and stripping fish, and I figured I'd better bounce before I end up a sashimi special in some upscale Roppongi joint...
I don't blame them of course.
These people don't owe me anything. They are working very hard, and it is well known that the fishing industry in Japan has taken a bad hit following the recent earthquake and nuclear crisis up north.
Tokyo as always､ has exceeded my expectations.
I got what I came here for, and then some.
It's the perfect city for a video maker I think, even post-tragedy, with the tension and power rollouts, these difficulties in my opinion add an air of sinister mystery to the footage. The bright and dark sharp contrasts give some parts of the city (Shinjuku/Roppongi) a distinct ominous air...
Anyways, there were very many more highlights, and I am hoping I can write on some of those in future posts.
Thanks for reading.
No comments:
Post a Comment